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Carnuntum: A Vision for the Future of Wine
© Anna Sebjanic
In the eastern Austrian wine region of Carnuntum, the story of origin is a shared one. Through innovative event formats, a new take on 'Heurigen' culture and fresher wine styles, Carnuntum demonstrates how the future can be actively and vibrantly shaped.
Recent findings of IWSR, the global leader in beverage data and insights have overturned the theory that young people do not drink alcohol. Turns out, it’s not true.
They drink for different reasons and approach it with different interests than older generations: Older generations enjoy wine as a way to unwind; younger people see it as a way to connect. At a time of growing digital isolation, wine offers something increasingly valuable: community, friendship and a reason to celebrate.
Carnuntum recognised this long ago. With the legendary White Wine Fashion, the region’s winegrowers were already creating events centred around wine and connection in the early 2000s, making a clear statement in the process.
Carnuntum Experience 2.0
Back then, several hundred young - and young-at-heart - guests, all dressed in white, flocked to the old amphitheatre and the Roman quarry to dance the night away. Carnuntum’s new formats are smaller, quieter and more focused on social interaction and delving deeper into wine and place.
On one weekend each in May, June and July, for example, the Carnuntum winegrowers organised relaxed Experience afternoons in Prellenkirchen, Höflein and Göttlesbrunn: deckchairs instead of thumping beats, light vegetarian translations of Austrian cuisine, and vertical tastings accompanied by lively discussion. “Our events in the region’s finest vineyards really struck a chord with curious younger visitors,” explains Tina Netzl.
© Michaela Riedmüller winery
“There were so many questions and conversations – it really opened up the dialogue which was fantastic.”
Alongside these collective events organised by the Rubin Carnuntum Estates, individual producers have staged - and continue to - numerous smaller events of their own. The Gerhard Markowitsch family hosted a courtyard bistro at their estate; Weingut Glatzer opened the pop-up 'Dolce Vita, Schweinsbraten & Amore'; Daniela Raser organised 'Rock am Weingut'; and Dorli Muhr presented an entire series of 'Konzerte in der Wiese' (Concerts in the Meadow)
The Heuriger Is Having a Moment
Another particularly interesting development is the renewed enthusiasm for the Heuriger, Austria’s traditional wine tavern. “Young people love the Heuriger because it offers exactly what they are looking for: small plates, a relaxed atmosphere, large tables for the whole group of friends and prices they can afford,” says Victoria Gottschuly. Over the past few years, she has created a modern take on the Heuriger at her family home in Höflein, serving refined small plates, many of them vegetarian. Her opening dates are often fully booked weeks in advance.
Stephanie Böheim’s Heuriger is enjoying similar success: “Our dates fill up incredibly quickly. Best of all, we now sell almost 30 per cent of our wines through the Heuriger. It is efficient and sustainable, both economically and environmentally.”
A Red Wine Crisis? Are we sure?
“The great wine boom of the past three decades has subsided,” explains Gerhard Markowitsch. But this came as no surprise. The trend had been visible for some time, and attentive producers have long since adapted.
As Lukas Markowitsch puts it: “Winegrowers cannot simply produce whatever they like; they have to keep an eye on the market and what it wants. For some time now, we have been moving away from powerful wines towards finer, more elegant styles, while scaling back the varieties that primarily produce heavy reds.” A development that has been evident in Carnuntum for more than ten years.
Overall, wine consumption is declining across all colours and categories. Wines with little to distinguish them, however, have been hit hardest.
© Ivan Bandic
“Wines need to tell a story about their origin, their soils and their vineyards. Oversimplifying is not the answer. Fine wine is complex, and younger people in particular want to explore the mystery of provenance and understand it.”
Telling a Shared Story
“The decision to join the vineyard-classification work of the Traditional Wineries of Austria (ÖTW) was absolutely the right one,” says Philipp Grassl. It has given Carnuntum’s producers a clear, shared message and naturally places the region’s single-vineyard red wines alongside the finest white wines from the regions north of the Danube.
“The widely reported decline in consumption has not hit us as hard, because younger consumers tend to choose higher-quality wines,” confirms Hanna Glatzer, who has successfully introduced her own range, Hanna macht Wein. Natural wines that are affordable, but never cheap. The more there is to tell, the stronger the response - because younger generations want to consume consciously and with purpose.
Where to Connect Next:
Saturday, 19 September: Fiesta Mexicana
Mexico meets Göttlesbrunn at Weingut Glatzer
Sunday, 11 October: Spitzerberg Release in Edelstal
12 wineries release their latest vintages.
Tickets: €25
Friday, 23 October: Tour de Vin
All 20 Carnuntum members of the ÖTW (Traditional Wineries of Austria) come together in Höflein.
Tickets: €30
Saturday, 14 + Sunday, 15 November: 'Lepoldigang' in Göttlesbrunn
Tickets: €30
