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Happy Birthday, Esterházy Winery

by Catherine Walbridge
Esterhazy 20 years Tasting

It was the day the world came to the Austrian village of Trausdorf in Burgenland. Twenty years ago, Esterházy opened its state-of-the-art winery here, marking the beginning of a new chapter in its more than 300-year winemaking history. Since then, the estate has evolved into one of Austria's leading terroir-driven, organically farmed wineries, placing the distinctive character of Leithaberg at the heart of its wines.

On 11 September, international and local wine media, sommeliers, political representatives, industry partners and wine enthusiasts gathered to celebrate this transformation and the winery's 20th anniversary.

Esterhazy 20 years Vineyard Tour
© Roman Seidl
Esterhazy 20 years Party
© Roman Seidl

Reinterpreting a pioneering tradition

How much has changed at this storied estate could not only be tasted by several hundred party goers but heard as well. The symphonies composed by Joseph Haydn for the noble family in the Esterházy palace, several floors above its wine cellars, were replaced by a saxophone soloist and the beats of a DJ on the Trausdorf winery grounds on 11 September. But for the attendees who enjoyed gourmet plates and clustered around picnic tables, the most notable shift was the evolution of the wines in their glasses.

Wolfgang Hewarth
© Roman Seidl

“The anniversary provided the perfect opportunity to showcase how Esterházy Winery has developed itself over the past 20 years. Our elegant and expressive wines reflect the uniqueness of Leithaberg and demonstrate how we combine centuries of tradition with modern, organic certified viticulture.”

Wolfgang Hewarth, Esterházy Winery managing director
Esterházy Winery_Leithaberg oak cutting boards Simon J. Woolf und Nicole Retter
© Roman Seidl

Soul of Leithaberg

The first taste of Esterhazy’s pioneering wines came in the morning when industry experts from Canada, the USA, UK, Netherlands, Norway and Switzerland joined their Austrian and German colleagues for a masterclass entitled ‘Past, Present & Beyond’.

ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2023 Raimonds Tomsons and Austrian wine expert Willi Klinger joined Wolfgang Hewarth in explaining the significance of the aperitif and opening flight – three 100% Blaufränkisch sparkling wines. They displayed not only Esterházy’s long expertise with this native red grape variety but its pioneering spirit and passion. “Blaufränkisch is the soul of the Leitha mountains so there was never any doubt we would make sparkling wine from this variety,” Hewarth said of the rare trio of sparkling wines spanning Non-Vintage, Rosé and Grosse Reserve.

The experts were enthusiastic about the flight of 2023 Pinot Blanc highlighting the village wine from Großhöflein and the single vineyard wine from Ried Oberer Wald in Rust. The vertical tasting of Blaufränkisch vintages from the single vineyard of Schildten in St. Georgen clearly charted the course towards a precise, forward-looking style. And finally, the Schloss Cuvée 1989 was poured so attendees could compare how Esterházy’s expression of its terroir has changed in the last 35-plus years.

Raimonds Tomsons
© Roman Seidl

“It has been exciting to see the evolution of Esterházy wines, particularly in the last eight years. Their wines convey purity, freshness and a sense of place which are qualities that international consumers are looking for”

Raimonds Tomsons, Latvia, ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2023

The masterclass was followed by a tour with cellar master Jakob Holzmann, and a vineyard tour to Ried Oberer Wald with vineyard manager Ticiana Nagy.

Quality first

The afternoon culminated in the anniversary celebrations held under the banner ‘20 Years Weingut Esterházy Trausdorf – Born of Origin. Expressed in the Glass’. The milestone event attracted hundreds of wine enthusiasts and numerous distinguished guests, with tickets selling out weeks in advance.

As the sun peaked out from behind the clouds, Dr. Stefan Ottrubay, Chairman of the Board of the Esterhazy Private Foundation, reminisced in his opening remarks to all guests about Esterházy’s venerable winemaking history– and the giant stride forward it has made in the last two decades at Trausdorf.

Dr. Stefan Ottrubay
© Gaumen Hoch / Christopher Hanschitz

“The wines used to be vinified by candlelight in the cellar of the Esterházy palace; today, of course, we ensure the highest standards as we celebrate our 20th anniversary in this forward-looking building. Over this period, it is not only the winery that has evolved in terms of quality and modernity, but also the wines themselves."

Dr. Stefan Ottrubay

Alongside Esterházy wines and wines from the partner winery Etyeki Kúria, the event brought together Leithaberg DAC guest winemakers as well as guest chefs such as René Molnar of the restaurants Grenadier, Henrici, and Libelle, Clara Aue of Heu & Gabe, Peter Zinter of Gogosch Restaurant, Parvin Razavi of &flora, and Martin Kammlander of Das O’s am Mondsee to create a well-rounded culinary offering. Blending the passionate hospitality of the entire winery team with the relaxed Austrian way of life, guests celebrated well into the night.

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About Esterházy winery

Esterházy melds more than 300 years of tradition with innovations to produce cool climate wines that are as expressive as its rich cultural heritage. This historic winery, owned by a family foundation, has been producing varietal and single vineyard wines in the Burgenland appellation of Leithaberg in the east of Austria, since 1758. Their wines were originally made in the cellars beneath the baroque Esterházy Palace in the Burgenland state capital of Eisenstadt, where world-famous composers such as Joseph Haydn formed an integral part of the court. Today it produces single vineyard, village and regional wines from 65-hectares of vineyards spread across six Leithaberg villages: Grosshöflein, Eisenstadt, St. Georgen, Oslip, Rust and St. Margarethen.

The entire estate, with its fossil-rich limestone and mica slate soils, is certified organic by the independent inspection and certification body LACON since 2023, and there is no irrigation. The grapes are handpicked in the vineyards – all of which are less than 10km from its state-of-the-art winery in Trausdorf. There, the talented winemaking team has experimented with different ageing vessels to find the perfect match for each wine. Oak barrels from Esterhazy’s own forests add structure and complexity to the single vineyard native Blaufränkisch and Chardonnay wines while the other wines are matured in wood, stainless steel and vessels made from clay and granite. Since 2023, the winery has also used three of the world’s largest concrete eggs holding 3,800-litres each, partly made from basalt mined nearby in the Pauliberg quarry.

Esterházy winery
Trausdorf 1
7061 Trausdorf an der Wulka
Austria
Esterházy winery

Esterházy Winery’s leadership team: Jakob Holzmann, Wolfgang Hewarth & Ticiana Nagy
Catherine Walbridge
Catherine Walbridge
Head of International

From London to New Zealand and Hong Kong, Catherine Walbridge brings the world to Vienna, combining international experience with refined storytelling. For over 20 years she has worked as a journalist for leading media outlets worldwide. Growing up, she dreamed of becoming a race car driver—today she channels that energy into strategy and communications at Wine+Partners. Personally, she considers herself more of a Pinot Noir, but in Vienna she discovered her love for Gemischter Satz. Her most unusual glass of wine? On the Thai-Myanmar border as a lecturer in journalism.