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"Dad is my backup"

by Marion Topitschnig
Johannes & Paul Achs

Austrian winemaker Paul Achs is not yet contemplating retirement, but the next generation is already knocking on the door in the form of his son Johannes. In this intergenerational discussion, they talk about the challenges and opportunities of handing over a winery.


A generational change is a challenge. Paul Achs, a top winemaker from Gols in Burgenland, knows this all too well. "When I took over the business from my parents, the situation was not so relaxed. Winemaking had a bad image and there was much more pressure," he recalls. But there were also advantages: "I wasn't in the spotlight back then, so my initial mistakes went unnoticed." Today, things are very different for his son Johannes, who is following in his father's footsteps. The 19-year-old receives a lot of local media attention, so in a highly competitive wine market, a big name is an advantage. The flip side of the coin: "More is expected of me and every mistake stands out," says Johannes.


Not only has the image of Austrian wine changed in recent decades, young people are bringing fresh perspectives and have a different approach to the profession. Johannes always wanted to become a winemaker, but it wasn't a must. As a teenager, he deliberately chose a different path: "I wasn't interested in viticulture, but rather in wine itself." Sommelier courses sparked his interest in delving deeper into the world of wine and eventually switching to the production side. Currently, he wants to become a winemaker, but he also has a Plan B as a sommelier. Paul Achs comments:

"None of my children will be forced to take over the winery. It should happen of their own free will."

Paul Achs vineyards
Vineyards at Paul Achs © Roland Unger
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Finding your own path

Johannes also has a lot of freedom when it comes to experimentation. His first wine, Muskat Ottonel JA! Natural, is therefore not a ‘classic Achs’ wine. "I think this grape variety is pretty cool," he says enthusiastically. For his first vintage, he took over a vineyard that his father had already planted with Muskat Ottonel, as the variety is native to Burgenland. "At first, I had only planned not to filter the wine, but when I tasted it, I realised that the yeast was a really good fit. And so a natural wine was created after all." This is despite the fact that the winery's great strength lies in consistency. "We have never changed our style, only refined it," says Paul Achs, whose outstanding wines have received recognition both in Austria and internationally.

Johannes Achs
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"My wine style in three words? Fruity, elegant and freaky!"

Johannes Achs

Patience required

But how do you deal with the next generation of wine consumers? Father and son are in agreement: "We focus on direct contact, communication and information." On the one hand, they open their winery: "Lots of young people come, and cellar door sales are going great." On the other hand, Johannes knows social media is playing an increasingly important role: "We want to show conscious enjoyment and also educate." This includes the potential that wines have to offer. "We have the advantage of having many mature wines that demonstrate this," says Paul Achs, with Johannes adding: "You have to give today's 20-year-olds time; by the time they're 30, they'll be drinking top-quality red wine."

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Johannes can also take his time. "It's important that he gets some distance, goes abroad. Besides, I'm not that old myself. I'd like to continue for a few more years," says his father Paul, reflecting: "When I was younger, I never thought I'd be so open to someone young coming in with new ideas. Now I think it's great!" And Johannes adds:

"When I take over the business, I know that I am not alone. My Dad with all his knowledge and experience is like a safety net who will catch me until I feel confident enough to stand on my own two feet."

 

 

About Paul Achs

Paul Achs is not just a name or a brand, but rather a history that spans over decades. Viticulture has characterised the work of the Achs family for generations. Paul Achs Junior, born in 1968, has been running the family business with dedication since 1990, expanding it from 12 to 25 hectares. Under his leadership, the winery, which once focussed on white wine, has become one of Austria's most outstanding red wine producers.

Weingut Paul Achs
Neubaugasse 13
7122 Gols
Austria

Weingut Paul Achs

Paul Achs