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Fine dining on a porcelain stage

by Peter Wagentristl
Dish at Rutz

“The finest food demands an appropriate setting,” agree the three-Michelin-star restaurant Rutz and master ceramist Stefanie Hering. The Berlin-based designer has created an exclusive fine dining tableware range for the top establishment in Germany’s capital. To mark the company's 25th anniversary, a minimalist cup with a golden Rutz emblem from the Hering series is now also available in the shop.

Restaurant Rutz
© Rutz

Rutz and Stefanie Hering are connected not only by their love for Berlin, but also by their influence on modern gastronomy. The trend-setting restaurant in Berlin Mitte has been shaping the German fine dining scene for 25 years, while Hering's porcelain art has been influencing the aesthetics of top-class gastronomy for just as long. Hering has now created a plate, bowl and cup specially for Rutz.

Executive chef Marco Müller has paired the dish with one of his most sought-after pre-desserts: a tart wheat beer known as a ‘Berliner Weisse’ with Cape gooseberry. Rutz's interpretation of Berlin's cult drink features malt ice cream made from reduced wheat beer with cape gooseberry in two consistencies: clear with a fresh-sour taste and as a jelly made from berries macerated for three days.

Marco Müller
© Rutz

“A small course that realigns the palate and sharpens the senses, served on our new plate by Stefanie Hering. The design and shape also influence how dishes are perceived and enjoyed. You should run your spoon through the food from above, taking in all the flavours and textures at the same time.”– Executive Chef Marco Müller

Executive Chef Marco Müller   

Rutz has a preference for hollowed plates. That’s because it is renowned for adding a special finishing touch to dishes at the table, notably sauces. Plates with hollows are the perfect foil for this final element.

Stylish gift tip for aesthetes

Those who are not able to have the pleasure of enjoying Rutz’s outstanding cuisine served on Stefanie Hering's equally impressive tableware have not been forgotten: to mark the restaurant's 25th anniversary, a coveted cup bearing the Rutz insignia is also available as a limited edition in the Rutz shop.

Rutz Cup
© Steffen Sinzinger

Classically turned and glazed on the inside, the cup is a real treat for the hands (and the eyes), created from finely ground bisque porcelain and finished with a dot of 24-carat gold. “This acts as a small, precisely placed mark – a subtle, elegant detail that lends the pure form a special tension,” the master ceramist explains.

This elegant cup, available in limited quantities, comes in two versions.

Not white, not smooth, but full of character

Marco Müller and his team at Rutz also worked with the Berlin-based designer to test and experiment with colours, shapes and glazes. The three-star restaurant has a clear policy here: white is a no-go for Rutz. “Too clinical”, is the verdict of co-owner Anja Schmidt and Müller. The fine dining restaurant also avoids white for its tablecloths and kitchen tiles.

Rutz Cup
© Steffen Sinzinger

The final choice was ‘Silent Iron‘: a glaze made from special clay that partially melts at extremely high firing temperatures of around 1400 °C / 2552 °F, explains the designer: “This creates a deeply textured, almost mineral surface that perfectly matches Marco Müller's style of presenting dishes as landscapes and textures: rough, earthy, archaic and yet precise.”

‘What belongs together has found each other’

Anja Schmidt has long been a private admirer of Stefanie Hering's work. And the elegant Rutz restaurant, one of Germany's finest dining establishments, and the award-winning designer also share a long-standing friendship. A collaboration was therefore only a matter of time.

“Stephanie's philosophy and that of Rutz are very similar – it's a case of two halves making a whole.” – Owner Anja Schmidt

What distinguishes fine dining tableware

According to Herings' philosophy, a plate should not only be functional, but also enhance the dish: “as a stage, a frame or a sculptural element on the table. That's exactly what I mean by ‘art pieces for the table’,” she explains.

Executive chef Marco Müller appreciates this approach. What he likes about Hering’s timeless, purist design language are the typical wide edges, which also impress for their tactile quality, be that through grooves, rough surfaces, the absence of glaze or even holes.

Design & functionality go hand-in-hand

Müller believes Stefanie Hering was the first designer to consciously break away from the classic conventions of fine dining tableware. At the beginning of the creative process, the master ceramist always asks herself the question: How should the guest experience this course?

“Our designs always arise in dialogue with the kitchen and reflect the same approach: precision, reduction and absolute craftsmanship. For top-class gastronomy, porcelain needs a clear, distinctive signature – and at the same time great versatility.” – Master ceramist Stefanie Hering

 

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About Rutz

Continuity paired with constant evolution. For over 20 years, executive chef Marco Müller has been shaping Berlin's Rutz restaurant with his purist approach – focusing on two outstanding flavours in each dish. Founded in 2001 by Anja and Carsten Schmidt and the late sommelier Lars Rutz, Rutz is now one of the few independent top restaurants in Germany – without any hotel affiliation or sponsors.

Since 2022, Rutz has focused exclusively on its restaurant business in Berlin-Mitte, while the original concept of the wine bar lives on at Rutz Zollhaus in Kreuzberg. The comprehensive redesign by acclaimed Berlin architect Prof. Gesine Weinmiller gives the two-storey restaurant with summer terrace a minimalist, elegant ambience. Regional and international materials – such as natural Bavarian stone and Japanese designer chairs – underline the uncompromising quality. A central, two-storey shelving unit with preserves symbolises the connection between design and culinary art. Anja Schmidt sums it up: “As with a custom-made suit, we have interwoven the workshop, kitchen and dining area.”

Anja & Karsten Schmidt

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Elisabeta is empathy personified. She immerses herself wholeheartedly in her clients’ projects and, as a passionate ambassador, shares their values and messages. She brings not only great sensitivity to her work but also solid professional training. After studying journalism, she quickly climbed the career ladder — from working at a local newspaper to positions in social media and PR agencies — until she finally found her true calling in the world of indulgence and enjoyment at Wine+Partners. Anyone who is looked after by Betti knows they have a passionate communicator by their side.