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One grape variety unites Europe
© Anna Stöcker
At VieVinum, the red carpet is rolled out for the “Queen of Central Europe”. The United Nations of Blaufränkisch initiative showcases the diversity and potential of this variety, which has risen in recent years from underdog to the darling of the sommelier world. A high-calibre and enthusiastic fan base explains why Blaufränkisch is, for them, the variety of the future.
Many languages – many names
According to international experts, Blaufränkisch ranks among the world’s great grape varieties. One of the reasons why it is less well known than, say, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah is the many different names by which the variety is known: Kékfrankos, Modra Frankinja, Frankovka, Franconia, Burgund Mare, Lemberger and, of course, Blaufränkisch.
The mission of the wineries from 33 wine regions – from Württemberg in Germany, via Mikulov in Moravia, Podravje in Slovenia, Szekszárd in Hungary to Crișana in Romania – is to demonstrate that this variety has an incredible ability to express its very specific terroir whilst also serving as a unifying force for Central Europe’s wine regions. Or as the legendary wine critic Jancis Robinson MW puts it:
© Anna Stöcher
“Blaufränkisch is the Pinot Noir of Eastern Europe. A grape variety full of potential, capable of precisely reflecting even subtle differences in terroir – and more than capable of claiming a place in the choir of noble grape varieties.”
United tasting at VieVinum
The 'United Nations of Blaufränkisch' initiative, taking place as part of VieVinum from 16 to 18 May 2026 at the Hofburg in Vienna, demonstrates just how complex and diverse this new darling of the wine world can be in conveying its terroir.
Seven countries have joined the movement. To ensure each country is represented by its very best wines, leading sommeliers were asked to assist in selecting the wineries.
These experts are responsible for selecting the exciting 101 wines from seven countries and 31 wine-growing regions:
Germany – Sebastian Höpfner
Sebastian Höpfner is one of the leading sommeliers in the German-speaking world, as his CV attests: after working at the Taubenkobel in Schützen (Burgenland, 2 stars), he moved on to become head sommelier at the three-star restaurant Rutz in Berlin-Mitte. He is not only a supporter of the Eintracht Frankfurt football club, but also a Blaufränkisch enthusiast: “Blaufränkisch combines two wine worlds that are fundamental in Europe: a Pinot-like elegance and finesse, as well as the gripping spice that is otherwise more commonly associated with Syrah or Cabernet Franc.”
Romania – Julia Scavo
The renowned sommelier Julia Scavo (DipWSET) achieved top rankings at the World and European Championships organised by the International Sommelier Association (ASI). With her refined palate and extensive knowledge of food pairing, she is well aware of the qualities of Burgund Mare in Romania and its gastronomic potential.
Hungary – Zoltán Győrffy
The wine journalist, who was born in Yugoslavia, founded the magazine Pécsi Borozó in 2008, where he served as editor-in-chief until 2024. Today, Győrffy writes for specialist publications such as Decanter, Gusto and Magyar Konyha, organises events such as GROW du Monde and Franc&Franc, and is regarded as one of the most influential figures in the Hungarian wine world.
Slovakia – Peter Lunter
Head Sommelier and Manager at Bratislava’s ECK Restaurant since 2022, Peter Lunter is a leading figure in the Slovakian wine world. Named Falstaff Sommelier of the Year 2025, he previously built a stellar reputation at the two-Michelin-starred Steirereck in Vienna. Lunter is especially passionate about Frankovka modrá (Blaufränkisch), exploring how the variety reflects the nuanced soil compositions of Slovakia.
Austria – Alexander Koblinger
Alexander Koblinger is not only a Master Sommelier, but also a Sake Samurai and a Blaufränkisch enthusiast: “In the restaurant industry in particular, Blaufränkisch is right at the top of sommeliers’ lists: it combines structure, freshness and depth, making it one of the most versatile wines for accompanying food.”
Czech Republic – Jan Směták
Jan Směták has extensive experience in international Michelin-starred gastronomy; following stints at the Tement winery and Obauer, he currently works as Head Sommelier at two top-class hotels in Hochsölden. The Brno native has repeatedly been ranked among Austria’s top 50 sommeliers by Rolling Pin magazine. He selected the Czech wineries together with expert Klara Kollarova. She says: “Frankovka from Moravia is something quite special. The wines are often mineral-driven, display seductive aromas of cherry and red berries, and have a wonderfully pronounced acidity.”
Slovenia – Simona Česen
Simona Česen is not only one of the most exciting up-and-coming talents on the international wine scene; she was also named Slovenia’s best sommelier in 2025. Česen completed her training with the Slovenian Sommelier Association. In addition to holding WSET Level 3 certification, she is continually developing her skills through international programmes such as the ASI Bootcamp in Seville. Simona Česen has been working as a sommelier since 2019; today she is Head Sommelier at the Wine Bar Šuklje in Ljubljana and will represent Slovenia at the next World Sommelier Championship and the European Championship. And most importantly: Modra Frankinja – as Blaufränkisch is known in Slovenia – is her personal favourite grape variety.
Leading wine critics are convinced: Blaufränkisch is the star
Blaufränkisch, in all its forms, has now made its mark in top-tier gastronomy across virtually every wine-loving country. The verdict of some of the most authoritative voices in the wine world has played a key role in this meteoric rise of Central Europe’s flagship red grape variety. A small selection:
© Wagentristl
"Blaufränkisch is a wonderful Central European bridge between the cool climate of the pre-Alps and the warmth of the Pannonian heartland. Beneath its rugged exterior lies a dense core and a lively acidity, which together require time. Blaufränkisch rewards those who are patient with its enduring youthfulness, supportive tannins and a minerality that reflects the terroir."
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“Blaufränkisch is the finest grape variety in Central Europe. It displays character, regardless of style: whether powerfully structured or delicate with Burgundian spice. I love its floral notes, its peppery spice and the lively acidity that does not fade even with high ripeness.”
© Elke Mayr
“There is no other variety in Central Europe quite like Blaufränkisch – robust, often powerful and intense, yet never heavy; evoking dark forest fruits and cherries, black tea, undergrowth and forest floors, but also slate and limestone, yet always fresh and lively, even in warm years. It is perhaps precisely for that reason, the variety of the Anthropocene, the human-influenced geological epoch that is increasingly taking its toll on us and future generations.”
© Wagentristl
“Blaufränkisch is already one of the finest red wine varieties in the world and will further cement this status in the coming years. Late-ripening and endowed with excellent freshness and elegant tannins, it delivers outstanding results in both dry, hot and cooler years. Blaufränkisch is Europe’s trump card in the face of climate change.”
© Elke Mayr
“Less has made Blaufränkisch more: less extraction, less body, but more precision. It is not the grape variety that has changed, but our understanding of it. Blaufränkisch can hold its own alongside the world’s great red wines, be it Syrah, Nebbiolo or even Pinot Noir. Yet the variety always remains distinct, conveying its terroir with energy and clarity – and usually at a fraction of the price.”
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