Wine
The latest wine trends in Vienna
The hype about natural wines reached Vienna some years ago and there are numerous restaurants, bars and shops that focus on wines outside the mainstream. What is being served there? Here is a stocktake and outlook for the future...
What's hot in Vienna? This flippantly formulated question fits well if you have a hip, young target group in mind – and natural wines. The triumphant march of natural wines began a few years ago, and since then shops and bars have sprouted up almost like mushrooms. And the trend shows no signs of slowing. So that is reason enough to ask experts and sommeliers what is currently in vogue within the "natural bubble" (although the term "natural" is certainly a flexible one), their personal favourites and insider tips and how the scene and range of wines on offer will develop.
Moritz Herzog – Weinskandal shop & RUNDBAR
Current favourite wine: Domaine Durrmann, Grand Cru Mönchsberg 2021 Bio
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"The demand for fizz – from Pet Nat to Champagne continues, especially in summer. In addition, 'low-and-no' is definitely a big topic, I'm thinking of Julie Hoch's botanical beverages [Kremstal, Austria] or Ama Brewery from Spain, for example. Besides less alcohol, wines that are less radical are also in demand. It's in the direction of more classic wines with more elegance and less wood."
Benjamin Edthofer – Heunisch & Erben winebar, restaurant & shop
Current favourite wine: "In summer, it should always be rather lean and acidic. In my glass, I drink Bernhard Huber's Malterdinger white 2019 or Silice 2022 from Domaine Ardoisiéres."
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"Due to the ever-present climate crisis, sustainable or biodynamic agriculture is becoming increasingly important. This does not necessarily have to be reflected in the taste of the wine, but it is an important topic for many customers. Therefore, the trend will move away from dogmas such as 'orange' or 'classic' and towards honest, artisan wines or wineries that work ethically in harmony with nature. I assume that small to medium-sized producers who produce consistently good quality far away from the insane prices of our time (see Burgundy, Jura, Champagne) will establish themselves in the future."
Claire Yuan – Vinifero wine bar & shop
Current favourite wine: At the moment, the Succus white 2020 of Mike Muff, a Chardonnay with short maceration. Slight reduction on the nose, pleasant notes of citrus and stone fruit on the palate, nicely integrated acidity. Great food companion for light summer cuisine or just alone.
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"At the moment, probably helped by the summer weather, many are reaching for Pet Nats from white to orange to rosé. Juicy, light red wines served chilled are still very popular. As an insider tip or future trend, I would name high-quality, natural wines housed in bag-in-boxes and pouches. Especially when it comes to sustainability (in comparison to glass production, transport, etc.), this is a pleasing development!"
Lucas Steindorfer – BRUDER restaurant & bar
Current favourite wine: Plazma 2021 by Kolónia 52, run by the young, up-and-coming winemaking couple Annamaria Török and Attila Francisti [Hungary]
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"Our guests generally ask for fresh, mineral and light wines, but they also like us to surprise them and want to expand their wine horizons. Many are very eager to experiment. What is definitely on the rise are wines from Hungary, in particular the Furmint grape variety which is experiencing another upswing."
Felix Neubauer – The Wine Rebellion wine bar & shop
Current favourite wine: With whites, it would be the Riesling Rausch Spätlese 2013 from Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken winery [Germany], which you can drink like apple juice. And for reds, it's Les Rouliers 2019, a "peasant-grown" Cabernet Franc from Benoit Courault [Loire] – an underdog with a name.
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"Organic and biodynamic wines are more and more in demand, also cloudy. We see that people attach great importance to sustainable production, but no longer necessarily insist on certification. The wines have to be stylistically clean and flawless, nicely polished. In the 'natural' space, the trend is away from 'dirty' wines, it's getting lighter and more drinkable, and even fresher. Noone wants to drink heavy wines anymore. What is absolutely on trend are lighter wines from the low segment between 10 and 11 percent by volume, which is an absolute selling point for us."
Matthias Pitra – MAST wine bistro
Current favourite wines:
Julian Haart, Riesling Kabinett Wintricher Ohligsberg 2021
Nikolaihof, Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin 1997
Pranzegg winery, Fuori Serie 2013
Wenzel winery, Furmint Alte Reben 2021
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"The trend is generally away from 'dirty', cloudy, extremely mash-fermented wines. People want natural wine, but clean. Many winemakers went along with the hype about wild natural wines, but some have since stopped – fortunately, it has to be said. Winemakers along with consumers and restaurateurs have taken a step back toward a nicer kind of natural wine with a clean style."
Mario Bernatovic – Albert Bar & Kultur.Sommer.Semmering
Current favourite wines: Everything from Burgundy and white!
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"With natural wines, they are becoming lighter, particularly on trend now are summer red wines, which one can drink cooled, for example the Kolfok Querschnitt Rotburger & Co 2021 of Stefan Wellanschitz [Austria]. Lower alcohol content is certainly also an issue, here I recommend Silvio Messana's Montesecondo Tïn from Trebbiano Toscano, which has just under 10.5 percent alcohol by volume. Away from wine, Bellinis are particularly in demand here at Albert – our signature drink.
Mara Feisst – Kommod
Current favourite wines: Planetes de Nin Blanc Carinena blanca 2016 from Nin-Ortiz [Spain]
What is being drunk, what is popular?
"In Vienna, what ends up in the glass depends very much on the district and the respective audience. Our restaurant is located in the 8th [district], so I would describe our guests as rather 'classic' wine drinkers. What is pleasing – and I also see this as my mission – is that people are generally becoming increasingly open-minded and are happy to be surprised, even beyond their own supposed preferences. It's important that organic doesn't automatically have to mean natural wine. Sustainability in particular will play an increasingly important role, because this way of working allows wineries to better deal with the climate crisis. There is a trend here and it will be exciting to see how sustainably produced wines develop in the future. I'm happy to take my customers on this journey."
