The long road to identity: 30 years of the Carnuntum winegrowing region

Carnuntum’s many identities

The borders and names of winegrowing regions are defined in the Austrian Winegrowing Act. Until 1971, what is currently known as ‘Carnuntum’ was part of the Donauland winegrowing region. It was then renamed Traismauer-Carnuntum, and from 1976 to 1985 Carnuntum was part of the Klosterneuburg winegrowing region. Thereafter it was known as Donauland-Carnuntum. It was not until 1993 that a separate Carnuntum winegrowing region was established, stretching from Vienna to Bratislava, south of the Danube and north of the Leitha rivers. Which is why the Carnuntum appellation is now celebrating its 30th anniversary. 

Joint initiative

Much earlier, however, even before official confirmation of the winegrowing region, the local winemakers came together to shine the spotlight on the distinctive cultural landscape. As far back as 1987, at a time when very light, acid-driven white wines were all the rage, they developed “Primus Carnuntum”: a nimble Grüner Veltliner that went to market in autumn of the year of harvest. The time was ripe for a joint initiative, and 70 (!) estates from Carnuntum ultimately took part in this project. A sensation.

Premium red wine

Soon thereafter it became clear that a move away from the young wine image was needed, and work began in earnest on the development of a premium red wine as the new calling card for the region. “Rubin Carnuntum” was first released onto market in 1992. This wine demanded of the region's producers that they address topics that seem obvious today but at the time were revolutionary to many: grape thinning, harvesting at maximum ripeness, aging in wood, one year of barrel maturation, and much more. They sought a red wine that would stand out from the existing portfolios of that time, with concentration, elegance, and strong physiological ripeness. 

With the goal of integrating the entire region into the plan, Zweigelt was selected as the variety for this new origins-based brand. (In the initial years, Blaufränkisch was also allowed). The majestic, glowing color of the variety led to the “Rubin” brand name. 

Rubin Carnuntum was hailed as the region's top wine in the 1990s and quickly developed into a best-seller. At the same time, individual estates continued pushing greater quality, bringing new and more ambitious wines onto the market.

As such, Rubin Carnuntum now serves as the flagship for the region, instead of its top wine:  one in every six bottles from Carnuntum bears the Rubin name on its label.

A return to deep-seated strengths

For much of the 1990s and 2000s, winegrowers seemed determined to prove that they could produce wines in an international style. By the 2010s, however, they began to embrace a focus on the region's intrinsic values as a way to raise its profile. Several projects worked in this direction. 

• The Spitzerberg was the site of new initiatives for Blaufränkisch at the highest level. 

• The Arbesthaler Hügelland by contrast saw a working group formed to look closely at Zweigelt and to experiment with unlocking its potential as a top variety. 

• In collaboration with the Geological Institute, a large-scale geological study was conducted on Carnuntum's various vineyard sites. The study explored more than just soil structures and their historical origins; it also analyzed the rieds’ varying capacities to store water and warmth and their wind exposition. The parameters it established confirmed the practical experiences of the winemakers—while helpfully providing explanations for them as well. 

All of which channeled the focus onto single sites. Carnuntum was, until that point, known for its blends labeled under fanciful names. Now the attention was drawn from the cellar to the vineyard, and single site wines soon became the focus of the region’s elite offerings.

Entry into the Verein der Österreichischen Traditionweingüter (2018) and approval as a DAC (2019) then proved both manageable—and logical—steps. 

New single sites in Carnuntum were classified as Erste Lage, and since then have borne the 1ÖTW symbol on their label: Stuhlwerker, Schüttenberg, Rosenberg, Haidacker, Bärnreiser, Steinäcker, Aubühl, Kirchweingarten, and Spitzerberg.

What remains to be determined is the status of the village-level Ortsweine. At present, Ortsweine are allowed from Stixneusiedl, Göttlesbrunn, Höflein, Petronell, Hainburg, and Prellenkirchen. But the final roster is still under discussion.

Late DAC decision

It took until 2019 for Carnuntum to define its own DAC (districtus austriae controllatus) regulations, a reflection of the significant diversity in the region, as well as the fact that any Carnuntum wine that doesn’t qualify for the DAC seal can only indicate “Niederösterreich” as its origin. Many estates saw this as risky, as Niederösterreich is more typically viewed as a white wine region. Yet over time, both the perception and the conditions have shifted. The effects of global warming can be seen clearly. 

Clear origins-based profile

Against this backdrop, Carnuntum has finally come to appreciate its own identity. The dry and very windy conditions between the Alps and Carpathians are responsible for the stony freshness that is a hallmark of Carnuntum wines. The climate is extremely continental, with major diurnal temperature fluctuations liberated from the moderating influence of the Neusiedlersee. The proximity to the floodplains of the Danube further underscores the freshness factor. For red wines of Carnuntum origin, other international grape varieties are allowed, but solely as minor partners in blends. Only two regional varieties, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, can be produced as varietals, and must represent at least 2/3 of blends. For white wines, the same holds true for Pinot-family grapes and Grüner Veltliner.

These steps, and the rapid rise of quality of Carnuntum wine, ultimately reflect just how closely and intensely the cooperation between growers has been.  A monthly meeting has been set up between the estates to discuss strategy and future steps. Wines are tasted, analyzed, and scored together. Joint projects are considered, approved, and conducted.  

Almost every winegrower knows every other Carnuntum estate and their wines. This unity is extraordinary and virtually inconceivable in many other regions. In Carnuntum, an attempt is being made to account for the needs and expectations of all members—from small heurige operators to large estates with heavy export business. 

Educating about Carnuntum

The newest joint initiative emerged from experiences gained over the course of the pandemic. 

During that time, Carnuntum's winegrowers conducted numerous online events, including the Carnuntum Experience as a replacement for Prowein, which had been canceled. The events proved a massive success, drawing in importers from around the world. The project has now been professionalized, with routine tastings for experts from Austria and beyond, always centered around a specialized topic related to Carnuntum. These training sessions have been dubbed “Carnuntum Academy,” and have been so well received that consumer-level tastings and events are now also being offered under the Carnuntum Academy brand. 

The goal is to bring insight and experience about Carnuntum wines to various target audiences around the world. Edutainment in its loveliest form.

Logically: organic

Another focal point in Carnuntum's development is the sustainable, organic working approach. In 2023, 230 hectares have switched to organic cultivation—representing a bit over 40% of the vineyards in Carnuntum. An additional nine estates are certified as sustainable. Carnuntum has set itself the goal of achieving complete organic certification by 2028.

The future is female 

The conditions are good, given that many operations are already in the midst of a generational transition. Yet there’s an additional tendency that sets Carnuntum apart:  The unusually high number of women assuming the helm of the region’s wineries. Estimates hold that roughly 40% of the vineyards in Carnuntum will soon be cultivated by women—and six in ten bottles produced here will come from women-led estates. 

The region appears to have found its profile: organic, fresh, and elegant—and female.